A hidden gem in Europe

We recently travelled to Wrocław (pronounced VROHTS-wahf) in Poland. A hidden gem, I would say. It was magnificent, I thoroughly enjoyed the city.

Looking at where to travel – this was end of the summer – we decided to go for a place famous for its Christmas markets. And the destination needed to have flights from our closest airport in Ireland.

Thus Wrocław was chosen.

I found a place to stay within walking distance of the old city where many of the beautiful sights are as well as the Christmas markets. It was also close to the train station. We were very impressed by the public transport which we used to and from the airport as well as on a trip to Auschwitz. More about that in another more somber blog.

Some churches we encountered

St Adalbert Church:

This was the first Romanesque church built on the left bank of the Odra River, which runs through Wrocław. Built at the beginning of the 12^th century the church was handed over to the Augustinians in 1148 and from 1226 it belonged to the Dominicans.  The Reformation in the 16^th century brought a long decline of the Dominican friary. After World War II the church was also badly damaged. Reconstruction took place and the church was restored to its former Gothic glory from the 14^th to 15^th centuries. Several late Romanesque and early Gothic relics are still visible including the rose window from the Gothic architecture era.

St Mary Magdalene Church

Also in the Old City is the St Mary Magdalene Church.  This gigantic church was the second one to be built on the left bank of the Odra River. The church was taken over by the Protestants after the Reformation with it returned to the Catholic Church after WWII. The unique Penitent’s Bridge spans the two towers whose domes were never replaced after WWII.  The 12^th century Romanesque portal is considered one of its most prominent features. It was moved here from the Benedictine Abbey and is considered Wrocław’s most valuable relic from that era. The current bridge was not the first to be built. One bridge burned down during fireworks and one was demolished during WWII. After comprehensive renovations the 45-metre-high viewpoint can now be reached by climbing 247 stairs inside one of the church towers.

The two witchy gnomes – Tekla and Martynka – are also on the bridge and to read the tale around them, click here. They do make for a very cool picture!

There are many other  beautiful churches including St John the Baptist Cathedral with the magnificent Gothic double spires.

Christmas Markets

The famous Christmas markets happening annually did not disappoint. It was like something from a fairytale book, especially at night. It is hard to miss them when you’re visiting, they are around the old city and you just follow the sound and lovely smells. Many fairy tales are told in a unique way around the markets, drawing in many children as well. You can also purchase crafts from local artists or just soaking up the atmosphere while walking around.

Foods including pretzels, traditional sausages and dumblings, waffles, churros, and so much more are on offer. The big attraction is definitely the mulled wine (or glühwein) where you can sit and enjoy the warm spicey drink while watching the world go by. We made sure to taste the variety on offer and the Wrocław Christmas special was our favourite. In a blog some four year ago I  did share a recipe for glühwein if you fancy trying it yourself.

Gnomes spread all over the city

Around almost every corner in the city there are little bronze statues – dwarfs or gnomes – waiting to be found. Some say there are around 900 gnomes around the city, other sources say between 600 and 800. I suppose no one really knows because some of these are privately owned … but how did this begin?  Apparently it started with a a protest against the communist regime in the 1980’s. They were called the ‘Orange alternative’ movement. The regime dealt seriously with critics and it was very dangerous to express opinions against the government, which some did by using graffiti slogans. So the members of this movement started painting pictures of gnomes over the painted-over graffiti. This became a silent form of protest.  The bronze statues began appearing in June 2001.

Anyway, this also makes for an interesting and fun tour around the city – looking for gnomes!

Until next time.

Slán